Bit of a delay getting this months write up on-line
this month I'm afraid. A combination of work pressure,
actually doing loads of work on Jason's car and then
my monitor blowing up slowed me down. I managed to get
the text almost up to date so at least I shouldn't have
forgotten anything major, but it probably accounts for
some short write-ups. B-, must try harder!
31st - Welding & Fettling - Jason's
I decided to
tag along to Arch more to be there in case Jason had
a problem than to enjoy the ride. It is a long old
slog up some pretty boring straight roads - oh and
it was hissing it down.
We were a little delayed leaving but arrived at around
10.30am and Neil set to work on the car, removing
the inner side panel, cleaning up the area and then
finally welding in a new boss. He gave the area a
spray with some Hammerite paint and put it all back
together. While we were there we got the answer to
the airbox problem - the pedal box had been modified
around the time of Jason's car and a quick measure
shoed that the clutch cable was about 1/2" further
away from the throttle compared to the new cars. We
were on our way again, after fitting the new harnesses
and the seat, by around noon. We stopped down the
road and called to see if DVA was around and if we
could drop in for a bit of a tweak.
Fortunately he was and we arrived about an hour later.
Unfortunately, the car then refused to start again
and we had to wait for it to cool down before it would
start again. In the meantime we showed Dave the airbox
and he was surprised that the pedal box was different.
When the car started again, Dave did some fine tuning
tweaks to the mapping, most of which I can't remember
now as my brain seems to function on a need to know
basis and at the moment, with carbs, I don't need
to know. Lets just say it ran a lot better by the
time he was finished, starting happily with a strong
stable idle. Thanks Dave!
When we got home, after a typically enthusiastic Jason
drive home, I removed the airbox again so I could
take it home and modify it.
Once home, I used a small cutting disc in my Dremel-a-like
to carefully cut out half of the side of the cable
recess. I then removed about 1/2" of material
towards the outside edge. The first piece was then
positioned in the gap and held in place with some
tape. From the inside I placed about 3 layers of glass
matting to bond it into place and also fill the gap
left. I was now left with the recess side moved over
1/2" and a filled gap of glass. I used some ordinary
body filler to bring the level up to match the rest
of the airbox, filed it back and finally sanded it
with some 1200 wet&dry using WD40 to lubricate
it. The last job was to mask off the area and paint
it black to match. Unfortunately I didn't have any
gloss black paint so I had to use some satin stuff.
Once dry I gave it a good polish and it came up a
bit, but it doesn't match. The saving grace is the
fact that it is facing down and you can't see it once
it is on the car. For about 1.5hrs work I was pretty
pleased with the end result, especially as it was
my first real attempt at glass fiber work.
27th - The First Drive - Jason's
The main job
tonight was to fit the airbox. This turned out to
be a complete pain in the arse as it would not comfortable
fit over the clutch cable. We even resorted to calling
Dave at around 9.30pm and he kindly spoke to me. From
the sounds of it, it should have just fitted on no
problems. Ours wouldn't as the cable was too far over
relative to the groove. In the end, a bit of brute
force got it to go over the cable. Unfortunately,
to achieve this, the cable had to be wound all the
way into the pedal box, with all the available adjustment
taken back out out the bellhousing end. This just
about worked, but it meant Jason had a very low pedal
We managed to next get the drivers seat back in, having
come up with a work around the ripped out bush of
looping the crutch strap around the back of the seat
and through the right hand side of the seat. It was
just long enough, and after several adjustments we
got it in and it would work for getting to Arch.
This was it then, apart from the various problems
left to sort out, we needed to test it out before
committing to taking the car to Arch or DVA's. I think
it was around 11pm when we started to get ready, big
thick coat, gloves, etc... We fitted Steve's wideband
lamba and then the engine wouldn't start. Doh. A quick
scrabble by Jason got my spare battery connected and
he jumped the car into life. It was still running
pretty rich, but as the temps came up this got better.
We made a few runs up and down a short section of
the A4 nearby, much to the amusement of some workmen
fixing overhead lamps.... just how mad have you got
to be to be out testing an open top car, with no doors,
a JPE screen, at 11.30pm at the end of January, oh
and it was snowing - did I mention that?
We got too cold by 12.30am, and the snow was getting
too heavy for us to continue to risk Jason's works
laptop. We put the car away, checked for leaks, found
none and considered it a fairly successful first test.
25th - Bolt Retrieval - Jason's
A happy ending
to what could have been a nightmare. I fished around
for a good hour and was convincing myself, and Jason,
that it would be ok to leave it there as it would
stay at the bottom, out of the way. Jason was all
for starting it up to see but I suggested slowly turning
it over by hand to see if it revealed anything. I
shut off the radio and waited for a plane to go for
some peace and Jason turned the crank about 1/4 of
a turn before a light tinkle was heard. He carried
on as I looked in vain with the torch but no more
noise came and the engine turned over freely. I decided
to have another delve around and after only 10mins
I felt something attach itself to the magnet. Normally
this just meant it had snapped to the bloody flywheel
again, but as I pulled it back out the bolt was on
the end. Fantastic - I was saved.
I set about fitting the airbox again, this time stuffing
a rag into the bellhousing gap first to block it off
in case. I found the airbox was clashing on the lug
of one of the trumpets so I removed this and filed
down the area and the washer to give some clearance.
I then applied some thread lock to the nylocs on all
the trumpets to be sure they don't undo. The airbox
is now ready to go on, but Jason was due at friends
so we stopped and it gave me chance to get this month
written up anyway.
24th - Egor, It Lives!!! - Jason's
The big day arrived
(again) and Steve
came over (in his 7 to rub it in) to lend a hand.
He too suggested short bursts at cranking for pressure,
but Jason had read that it can take a good 30secs
for it to arrive. My spare battery (freshly conditioned)
was hooked up, we poured a small amount of oil down
the plug holes to help seal the rings initially and
with the plugs still out Jason cranked the engine
for around 25secs before Steve hailed the arrival
of pressure on the gauge. Phew!
The plugs were put in the engine, leads attached,
inertia switch reconnected and the coil lead fitted.
It was time - there were no excuses not to. We rolled
the car back a bit to put the exhaust outside with
a mind on the need to bed the cams in (1500 - 2000rpm
for 15mins). Jason did the honors again and the engine
tried to catch. Then it didn't. Or the next time.
It seemed like the plugs were being flooded, so we
removed them and they were wet. Some of this could
have been the oil so after a good clean they went
back in. The same. This repeated for some time but
the plugs were better. A check of the laptop live
section showed that the batter voltage was now down
to dead on 12v and under cranking was between 8.5
and 9.1v. We decided this was too low so we moved
the car out further and connected up Jason's family
car for some extra juice. This time it was much better
and caught after a couple of attempts and whilst pretty
lumpy, Jason seemed able to maintain roughly the required
rpm for the cams. About 20mins later, after a short
pause to check the water system, the primary's were
glowing nicely and the cams should be done.
It was a bit rough, but at least it worked. Steve
has a wideband Lambda complete with readout on his
car and we decided to fit this to Jason's car to check
the mixture more easily. When the car was started
again it showed it was massively too lean - which
would account for the large number of spits and the
odd flame from the exhaust. We richened up the whole
map quite a lot and it ran a lot better. Eventually
with a smooth tickover at around 2500rpm. Steve backed
this down on the TB' and we adjusted the fuel slightly
to compensate. Stopped the engine and reset the throttle
pot calibration and restarted. The problem was now
that any application of throttle resulted in massively
rich fueling. We checked with the original map and
it was about the same for tickover, so we reverted
back and it was pretty much spot on. Basically I had
the TB's too open for tickover, so to get it right
we had had to add a load of fuel to match the amount
of air. This resulted in higher and higher rpm until
we could back down the TB's and then it was way too
rich again. We got their in the end and Jason is borrowing
the sensor for a short while to hopefully conduct
some local mapping sessions with laptop (and probably
me) in the passenger seat. It certainly ran very nicely
once set up with a smooth tickover, with no hunting,
and good throttle response. Jason looked like a happy
bunny as well - he might get the old carpet glue removed
a bit quicker now as I could tell he was dying to
try it out!
With the main event done, I decided to fit the airbox
while Jason did some of that glue. Unfortunately,
whilst trying to get the airbox to line up and fit
the top left bolt, I dropped it and it fell down and
dropped out of sight. It could be found no where and
I had the sinking feeling that it had bounced into
the bellhousing through a quite large opening. We
both looked for ages to try and see it, poked around
with a telescopic magnet and finally gave up. I felt
terrible. The car was so close to being finished and
I had dropped a clangor that could mean engine removal.
We discussed the use of a large powerful magnet to
try to drag it out to where we could see it via the
clutch gaiter hole and I went home trying to think
of what I had. I dismantled my old starter motor and
tried to see if I could make a strong magnet with
that. I couldn't see how, but I'd take it, and an
old speaker, with me tomorrow to try.
23rd - Gearbox Plug - Jason's
I had ground down the 10mm allen key. I had tried
using a hacksaw and blunted the blade instantly. So,
not to be defeated, I placed the short end against
the bench grinder and ground away the width of the
disc. The result was a small 10mm long piece, a nice
stubby allen key and a very large pile of dust. The
10mm long piece would fit nicely in the plug and allow
a ring spanner to be used. We had jacked the car up
on Wednesday so when I arrived I climbed underneath
and within about 5mins the job was done - oh it is
so much easier with the right tool!
With some spare time I double checked the wiring colours
on the oil pressure gauge and sender. They matched
(I had half hoped that was the reason for our lack
of pressure) and I lowered the car back down to the
ground. I then fitted the second heater
blanking plate that Brent had kindly cut and I
had folded. This was pretty straightforward, just
carefully measuring and double checking the hole positions.
The final hole still required some fettling with a
round file, but it doesn't show. When we are happy
with it I will apply some silicone sealant around
the edges and use some nice new machine screws to
fix it down.
21st - Gearbox Filling - Jason's
Tonight was a
quick evening with the sole intension to fill the
gearbox. It still didn't finish until around 10.30pm.
I had bent the copper pipe already, but hadn't cut
it down. This was done, and then refined (i.e. it
didn't quite fit). After about half and hour the pipe
fitted just right and with a 1lt squeezy bottle filled
with the g'box oil I dribbled it down the pipe for
what seemed like ages. After about 1.25lt had gone
in I pulled the pipe out as it should have been enough.
It was and a load came back out - luckily we have
put down some paper to catch the smelly oil, yuck.
After it finished dribbling out the fun and games
The filler plug had to go back in. This was even harder
than removing it. Eventually a joint effort of Jason
holding it in the hole from below the drivers side
and me rotating it slowly with some long nose pliers
from the passenger side got it to bite on the thread.
I got around a rotation firther before it got too
much for the pliers and we searched for a suitable
tool. Alas none could be found that would fit between
the plug and the chassis memeber next to it. We called
a halt, defeated again, and I would make a suitable
tool from a 10mm allen key.
18th - Oil, Water and Nearly There! - Jason's
Today was the
day we hoped to start the car! We almost got there.
After Friday nights exploits fitting the alternator
belt out the way, I moved on and fitted the Apollo
tank. This was pretty easy, the biggest problem being
access to the lower hose fitting to tighten it up.
With that in place we could finally position the header
tank on it's mounting lugs. With the Apollo fitted,
Jason poured 7.5lts of Comma Syner Z into the engine,
and remarkably, none came out the bottom - result.
After such a success we dared to fill the water system
and most of a 5lt can of Comma ColdStreme was poured
in via the header tank, and the end of the heater
bypass pipe. With the fluids done, we moved on and
fitted the roughly fitted the Emerald ECU on top of
the current MEMS unit. The cable would just about
reach and the unit will eventually be held in place
by either industrial Velcro or cable ties.
The final job seemed to be the fuel tank vent pipe
modification. This was to remove the charcoal filter
and save a bit of weight. The mod is basically a loop
of fuel pipe wit ha vent valve positioned such that
only air can escape. To fit this I removed the boot
floor whilst Jason pre-made the loop/valve assembly.
We decided to leave the old bit of plastic pipe as
it would be a pain to remove at that stage and could
be done anytime. From the top of the fuel filler cap
I removed the old pipe and vent and in it's place
Jason fitted the new assembly. This was cable tied
to the tank restraining bolts and the boot floor was
By now it was around 4.30pm and the light was fading.
I had brought my laptop over and after first trying
Jason's USB to serial cable on his laptop, we used
mine. I am pleased to say it talked straight away
and we uploaded the map Dave
had sent Jason that should suit his slightly ported
head (5% added fueling). The first task was to get
oil pressure and to do this we removed the plugs (to
remove compression), disconnected the inertia switch
(to cut off the fuel supply) and took the coil lead
off so that we only had one spark to take care of
instead of four. Jason did the honor and turned the
key. Click. Nothing. Bugger. After a few minutes thinking
it was the dreaded K-series starter problem, I got
my spare battery from my car and we hooked that up
via some jump leads. Again, Jason turned the key and
away it spun, quite happily. I had suggested that
we spin for around 10secs and then rest the battery
for 10secs, and so on until we had a lift on the oil
pressure gauge. After a good 6 or 7 goes, we still
weren't seeing anything. We stopped to have a think
and I had a quick check that connectors were secure,
etc. Unfortunately I couldn't find any reason why
it wasn't giving pressure. It was at this point that
we both realised that we hadn't filled the gearbox
with oil. Doh! We removed the plug (something else
impossible to reach) and tried to feed a spare length
of fuel hose down into the plug hole. This didn't
work and it was now around 7pm and we called an end
to it. Jason looked a little more than depressed that
we hadn't got it started. Sorry Jason! I took away
a length of 15mm copper pipe that I had taken over
there in case we needed to fabricate something for
the heater bypass circuit. I had a cunning plan to
put a bend in it and then cut it down to that it could
be placed into the filler hole and then filled. Read
the next thrilling installment to find out if this
16th - More TB's & Exhaust - Jason's
This turned into
a bit of a mammoth night, unintentionally.
After another typical start at around 8.30pm, I cracked
on and fitted the exhaust primary's. This was a lot
easier with the chassis member out of the way. While
I did this Jason was busy fitting the water plumbing
- nice and tricky as the TB's were in the way now
- oops! With the primary's all bolted up I moved on
to the TB's again. I fitted the airbox backplate and
the trumpets (on the thread-locked studs). I was also
able to fit the injectors and fuel rail, along with
the fuel lines. While I was fitting these, Jason fitted
the silencer to the primary's and to our great (and
grateful) surprise it slipped straight on. He had
put some WD40 on to help, and we were gob-smacked
how easy it was after what a pain it was to get off.
Jason then fitted the new throttle cable I had bought
that evening from Halfords. With a bit of trial and
error he got the right length and tightened the nuts
up. Job done, and another one off the list.
While he was doing that I fitted the water rail and
the plumbing. I then fitted the chassis rail back
into place, finding that my freshly fitted hoses were
in the way - aarrghh. It was easily removed and after
some persuasion the chassis rail bolts were in place
and tightened up and the water hose was refitted.
During this time, Jason had moved onto fitting the
new alternator belt. Slight problem found. The belt
didn't seem to be long enough. After some investigation
I found that the adjusting bolt was the wrong side
of the mounting arm, so after what seemed likes ages
with my nose under the chassis rail it was adjusted
out and to the correct place. However, the alternator
still wouldn't adjust close enough to the engine block
to allow the belt to be fitted. The problem is that
the Apollo tank hoses actually pass through alongside
the alternator and through the middle of the belt.
These are quite large and the alternator hits then
after moving all of about 2mm. There seemed to be
only one thing for it - remove the oil filter housing
and shift the hoses. This was a <insert very rude
word here> of a job. The left and lower bolts came
out no problem, but access to the top right bolt was
impossibly tight and I only managed to undo it with
a small socket on the end of a universal joint, on
the end of a small extension bar with a racket on
that. After lots of wiggling around the socket 'fell'
into the right place on the bolt head and it could
be undone. This was actually the easy bit. So, with
the hoses out the way, the belt went on no problem
and was very easy to adjust (I like that arrangement,
even if it is hard to reach). All that was left was
to refit the oil filter housing. Now, that three bolts
we easy, but the last one was just literally impossible.
Most of the problem was that it was so tight the hoses
were stopping the housing from sitting flat/in place.
Needless to say much swearing ensued and whilst I
go the three easy bolts in place, I just couldn't
get the third to go in happily. It felt wrong to me.
I was getting very stressed (probably due to the time
being around 2am) and so Jason had a go. He could
get it to the same stage but decided to drive it in,
backing it off after each half-turn or so. He says
it went in ok, but got tight before the end, but he
seems happy with it. It is something to keep an eye
on, but it seems ok. 2.30am and I set off home to
wake up the wife (she must really love me!) and get
Despite the final problem, we really did achieve a
lot and it as looking possible to start on Sunday,
if things went well.
15th - Throttle Boddies On - Jason's
After a night
off for the L7C
local meeting Thursday was another milestone was
to get the TB's bolted to the engine. I don't remember
any problems, it all bolted on fine, with the gasket
just needing a bit of a trim to allow the throttle
cable holder to be bolted in place. We tried to fit
te throttle cable, but after Jason spent ages getting
the cable through the drilled bolt, we found that
it wasn't long enough to reach the pedal. Doh! It
was decided that I'd get hold of a new cable from
a bike store, with a suitable end fitting to fit the
pedal, and plenty long enough. Being midweek, it was
again a pretty short evening and we stopped at around
10.30pm. I remember feeling we didn't really achive
much, so was a little frustrated.
13th - New Engine In - Jason's
The big day had
finally arrived. Although it had seemed at several
moments that we were never going to get to this point
the engine was at last going back in. Their isn't
a lot to say really. The rope was again slug under
the front of the sump and again around the front of
the bellhousing and I did my usual over-kill of knots.
A cross of the fingers and we tried lifting it and
I added my weight to check - it seemed secure so we
went of it. The engine was hoisted (thanks again Steve)
as high as it could go and the car was moved forwards
below the swinging engine. We lowered the engine and
edged the car forward bit by bit, and after a few
aligning pauses the engine was in place. The biggest
problem was getting the propshaft to engage and also
to get the gearbox over the mounting (we'd left that
on as one of the bolts was impossible to get to to
With the engine hanging in place, we fitted the engine
mounts loosely and then loosely to the chassis and
did them up in stages until it was nice and tight
in place. At this point we called it a night and I
had an early night at around 11pm.
11th - Weights, TB's & Airbox
Mandy had managed
to find some cheap kitchen scales at Argos, so I weighted
everything in sight in the garage. The upshot is that
I think I will be saving around 11kg from my car this
year - which is about what I had estimated, but still
good to confirm.
|Heater (wet, pipes & cable)
|Seat Runners (2 x seats)
|Plywood Boot Floor
|Carpets (boot, tunnel, bulkhead and matts)
A complete list
of the things I weighted is below (in grams):
|Adjustable Seat Runner
|Slideable Seat Runner
|Seat Runner Set (Per Seat)
|Plastic Pipe Seat Mounting
|Heater (dry) inc. valve
|Heater Water Volume
|Heater Silicone 90deg Elbow inc.
2 Jubilee Clips
|Heater Silicone Pipe Sleeve
|Heater Valve Cable
|Ali Heater Blanking Plate inc. 4
x Nylon Bolts
|Carpet - Boot
|Carpet - Bulkhead
|Carpet - Transmission Tunnel
|Runner Floor Matts
|Plywood Boot Floor
|Ali Boot Floor est.
|Scuttle Edge Trim
|Stainless Sill Protectors
|Wiper Motor + Arm
|Wiper Motor Mounting
|Wiper Blades - pr
|Rubber Light Block - pr
|Ali Light Block - pr
|Washer Bottle inc. pump - Full
|Washer Bottle inc. pump - Empty
|Zetec Lifting Eyes
|X/flow / Zetec Starter Motor
|KN Minator Alloy Wheel + 032
|KN Minator Alloy Wheel (Black/polished)
|1/2 Height doors - Homemade
|Tonneau - both halves
|Brooklands Screens Assembly
|K-Series BS Airbox GRP
|K-Series GRP Trumpets
|Sucker Mounted Mirror
I also finally
fitted the heat plate for good after polishing the
surrounding Ali on the scuttle. I ran a small bead
of silicone around the outline and bolted it down
with 4 Nylon bolts into the heater riv-nuts. A wet
rag removed any excess silicone and should stop rattles
and water getting in.
I then got to work on Jason's TB's. Whilst he had
removed the necessary material to match them to his
slightly ported Sport 135 head, he hadn't been able
to get a good finished with a Demel-a-like. I had
therefore taken them home with me for finishing off.
I used 120 and then 240 grit wet & dry with a
bit of WD-40 to help trap the dust. I got rid of most
of the deep file marks, but a few remain where it
would have required too much surrounding material
removal. They are, however, finally ready to be bolted
onto the engine.
Lastly, as mentioned on the 8th, the Airbox was back
for modification. I had removed the silicone already
(a possible problem had it been in contact with too
much fuel) so I mixed up some GRP resin and applied
that to the back of the clips. This doesn't quite
describe the fiddly job of trying not to drip very
runny resin all over the floor and get it to stay
where required. But I got there in the end.
10th - Autosport 2004 Show
A day off from fiddling with car - so we Jason, his
brother Neil and I visited the Autosport show to look
at more things to do to/with our cars - sad huh! All
round it was a good day out, but you do come away
feeling it isn't worth a trip every year, so we'll
be back - in 2006!
8th - Clutch & Gearbox Fitting
After a saga regarding the now infamous clutch
cover bolts (that I won't got into here) Jason
finally got a set from a Rover dealer near his works.
First job then, fit the clutch. This is a lot easier
with the correct size bolts and the only hassle was
lining it up. I've tried using an alignment tool before
and given up - they are not worth the money IMHO.
Instead I used a 3/8" extension bar placed in
the end of the crank as a general guide. From there,
after a few 'that's too high', 'now it's too low!'
comments, I progressed to just lining up the outer
edge of the plate with a similar diameter on part
of the clutch cover. This seemed to work and the bolts
were then torqued up, as per the Haynes manual figure.
Next job was to fit the new BGH gearbox to the bellhousing.
Now I know I'm known for being obsessive when it comes
to cleaning things, but Jason's bellhousing was a
state. We decided to give it a 'quick' clean in soapy
water. Half an hour later, and with a ruined scrubbing
brush, I gave up as it was just redistributing the
oil/grease/dirt/clutch dust. I had a bit of a brainwave
and decided to try some WD-40 (known to cure every
possible problem) and with a rag it removed the grime
quite easily, if slowly. We got a system going of
Jason squirting on the WD when I ran out of puff,
and I think it came up pretty well, far better than
putting it back on in the grubby state it was in.
With that done, we bolted it to the gearbox. This
was slightly delayed whilst we tried to find the bolts,
having passed over them once. A new gasket was fitted
between the two and the bolts were torqued up - always
fun as it is a sod to hold still.
Finally, an evening where things seemed to go right
for once, but I had a horrible feeling that was about
With all the hassle
over the differences between the 1.6 and 1.8 - needing
the sleeve and different length input shaft - this
was a bit I was concerned about. As it turned out,
not only did it fit together fine, it did so very
easily. None of the usual fighting to get the gearbox
perpendicular and the splines lined up. The dowels
were a bit sticky, but these pulled together when
the bolts were fitted (10 minutes to sort out which
ones as we seemed to have too many). The bolts were
torqued up and I was definitely relieved.
That was the main job of the night out of the way,
and as we were on a roll, I thought we might as well
get a few more of the little ones out of the way.
The starter motor was first, and again our thanks
to Brent as it fitted perfectly past his precision
grinding. Jason had a new clutch cable as his spare,
so we swapped over and I connected that to the release
arm. Lastly we fitted the alternator to the bracket
I had fitted a while ago. Again this was straightforward
once I had found the stand-off for the adjuster bracket.
It was decided that a new belt would probably be a
good idea, so Jason is going to pick one of those
up when he gets chance.
With that done, we called it a night as the next job
is to remove the charcoal canister and then fit the
engine. It was also about 1am and I knew I had a busy
day at work ahead of me.
When I got home I removed the silicone from the airbox
ready for some GRP resin. Jason had been told about
problems with silicone near the inlet side. I had
then quizzed Dave who said that it can be affected
by fuel and probably best to remove it - live and
learn. Thanks to both Neil and Dave on that one..
2nd - Cam Cover Plate & TB Matching
Happy New Year!
The replacement M8 clutch bolts were meant to arrive
at our local Rover dealer today. Needless to say they
didn't arrive. We managed to occupy ourselves for
most of the day though.
I had made a little Ali plate to fill in the cam cover
hole, left by the removal of the unused transverse
engine mount. The removal saved a good 1kg - 1.5kg
as it is a chunky lump of Ali. Whilst we were at Dave's
Jason had copied a template. I used this to do most
of the work before trying it on the new engine. It
didn't quite fit, so a bit of fettling and it was
a good snug fit against the foam lower edge. I marked
out and drilled 3 holes and then replicated these
on the plastic of the cam cover - I stuffed a large
rag into the void to catch any of the swaff. Three
rivets are holding it in place, with a dog leg at
the lower edge to keep it tucked in. I also ran a
bead of silicone where to fits to the upper cover
- as it will come off with that when the cover is
The next job we tackled was to match the TB's to the
slightly ported Elise 135 head. To do this I put some
cardboard onto two ports, hanging off the TB bolts.
I then cut through into the port with a Stanley knife
in a cross shape. I could then trace around the profile
of the port a bit at a time until it matched the shape.
Two were done at a time and the cardboard could be
placed, upside down, onto the TB and then the outline
replicated with a scribe. Jason then used a file to
open out as required - well they are his TB's, I didn't
want to ruin them. By around 3.30pm we were flagging
and I got a call from Mandy to say her car wouldn't
start at home. It was decided that I'd leave Jason
finishing the 2nd TB and see what the problem was
(a broken wire on the starter motor - new one required).
Update: 11th Jan,
a couple of hours were spent finishing off the TB's
using 120 and then 240 grit wet & dry. They are
finally ready to bolt on.