After the successful first run the final stage of the upgrade
was to swap the head for the ported item and the Piper
285 Cams that I had bought from a place based in Scotland,
which I found on the internet, called Need
For Speed. They offered the cams at the maximum discount
level that Piper allow, 10%, and have them delivered direct
from them. I called them up and they were very helpful in
ensuring that I got the correct cams for my engine.
To allow the swapping of the cylinder head I had to collect
a few parts which would need replacing, the head gasket,
head bolts and thermostat housing gasket.
This meant a visit to my local Ford dealership. Look out
here comes a rant!
Why have parts departments become
so amazingly unhelpful? I am sure they are trying to improve
things with their computerised systems that link everything
back to a chassis or registration number. In fact, if I
had an everyday tin-top I would be glad of such a system
and its ability to specify the particular part. However,
what I really do get annoyed about is their inflexibility
when it comes to simple requests for parts when you dont
have a cars identity to give them.
Whats the registration, Sir?
It wont help you
Well, do you have a VIN number?
Yes, thank you, but it wont help you either
I cant look it up without them
I just want the parts for a pre-96 2.0lt Zetec
Do you have the engine number?
Yes, but it isnt a Ford number you dont
mark your new service engines
Dont tell me this is for a kit car?
Yes, it is
Oh, they are such a pain, always wanting parts for
this or that
Well excuse me for trying to spend money with you!
And so it went on. Eventually I managed to persuade the
helpful staff member to look up the parts I
wanted the old fashioned way and after accepting
the I cant guarantee they are the right parts
speech I finally got my parts, although not before I got
the comment that comes to quite a lot, you could buy
a whole car for that. I personally found that hard
to believe as the total bill was only £60 so I made
sure to add the comment not as fast as mine you cant
as I walked out. I thought it was only Halfords that were
that unhelpful maybe its a job share scheme.
Anyway, thats my rant over. With new gaskets and
head bolts to hand I took the inlet and exhaust manifolds
off, drained the water system down and removed the water
rail. The cam cover could then be removed and the spark
plugs removed. Before I removed the old cams I set the engine
to 90 degrees before TDC, so that all the pistons were half
way up/down the cylinders. I took the cam belt off and then
carefully released each of the cam bearing caps a little
at a time. I then used a tool that Brent had kindly lent
me for holding the cam pulley still, undid the centre bolts
and removed the pulleys. I continued to undo the bearing
caps and once they were sufficiently released I lifted the
caps off in order and lifted out the cams.
The head bolts were then slackened off gradually and then
removed and the head lifted off. I gave the tops of the
pistons a clean and then used a dial indication gauge to
accurately set Top Dead Centre which could then be used
later when setting the lift of the cams. I marked the position
on the crank pulley against the pointed provided on the
After cleaning the top of the block I took two of the old
head bolts and cut the head off and then cut a screwdriver
slot in the top. These were fitted in a couple of positions
so that the new head could be lowered down square to the
block. These bolts could then be unscrewed and removed.
New bolts were then fitted and torqued down according to
the Haynes manual.
I fitted the hydraulic followers from the original head
(they had done very few miles after all) and then fitted
the new cams, ensuring to get them the correct way around.
Before doing this I rotated the engine back to 90 degrees
before TDC (to ensure all the pistons were well out of the
way of any valves) and the cams had to be liberally coated
with cam lube, a special lubricant that prevents the cams
being damaged during their initial running, before they
bed in. The cam bearing caps that came with the head were
then fitted in the correct locations (they are matched to
their particular positions). I loosely fitted the pulleys
and then rotated the cams so that the initial timing bar
could be fitted in the slots in the rear end (this is the
same as the standard cam timing method). With the cams approximately
timed I rotated the crank forward to the TDC mark I made
earlier and fitted a new cam belt and tensioned it. I then
set up a DTI with a plunger extension resting on the follower
so that it registered the amount of lift generated on the
valve by the cam. I had been given the amount of lift at
TDC to achieve by Brent, 0.120 inlet and 0.100
for the exhaust. The process was to rotate the cam I was
working on to the required amount whilst the engine was
at TDC, tighten the pulley and then check the setting by
rotating the engine back before bringing it back forward
to TDC once it repeatedly registered the correct
amount I was satisfied and moved onto the other cam, which
had been at the default setting whilst setting the first